Ama Dablam Climbing Routes

Ama Dablam Route

Standing 6,810m high, Ama Dablam is a prominent peak located in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal and is also dubbed as “Matterhorn of Himalayas” for its alike sore ridge. Famous for its thrilling ascent and breathtaking beauty among keen climbers, Ama Dablam remains invincible. The steep and abrupt surfaces of Ama Dablam climbing routes requires high technical climbing; therefore, ascending Ama Dablam has always been challenging.

The Matterhorn of Himalayas was given a name after its appearance. The long ridges on both sides look like spread arms of a mother(ama), and the glacier hanging on the southwest face of the mountain bears a resemblance to sacred jewelry worn around the neck by sherpas women called Dablam, eventually naming it as Ama Dablam. When translated into English, it means Mother’s Necklace.

Ama Dablam Climbing Routes

First ascended in 1961, Ama Dablam is one of the famous expeditions in Nepal, in fact, the third most popular peak for expedition. Every year hundreds of Alpinists come to conquer the peak. Different routes have been opened for ascending the peak. However, South-west ridge is prominent among others, the same route was used while conquering the Ama Dablam for the first time in 1961 by a group of mountaineers led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Even so, North Ridge Route, Northwest route are also attempted by alpinists. Still, no successful endeavor has been recorded from these routes, after the successful endeavor in 1979 from North Ridge Route.

Climbing Ama Dablam Easiest Route

South-West Ridge route is taken as the safest and possible route to the top of the peak to date. So, all the expeditions to the top are made via southwest Ridge. Before making it to the top, climbers set up three camps at different elevations above the Ama Dablam base camp(4,570m). The climb till Camp 1 is modest. However, when we gradually gain elevation, the vertical surfaces start showing up, making our ascending tougher.

The Climb from Camp 2 to the summit is not easy at all. In fact, the whole expedition is arduous. Not Everyone can scale the peak of Ama Dablam. Before reaching the summit from Camp 2, one more camp is set, Camp 3. The climb from Camp 3 to the submit gets more technical as the climbers have to cross snowy arête, bergschrund, and ice cliffs before reaching to the top.

Ama Dablam Camp 2

Ama Dablam boasts a beautiful campsite that sits at the elevation of 5900m above sea level, where expeditioners set camps which is titled as Ama Dablam Camp 2. The campsite is considered as one of the best places for camping in the world. The campsite has a meager rugged surface area on the top of a mountain that barely accommodates 5-6 tents.

The steep rocks and chunks of ice encountered on the way to Camp 2 is very difficult to overcome; ergo precipitous activities can also lead to tragedy. Nevertheless, the majestic Vistas of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and more seen from the Camp 2 are worth it.